Wine can be quite expensive, indeed some of the most expensive bottles ever
will never be drunk - where's the point in that? Buying cheap wine is all
very well, but sometimes you get a really crap wine - so you might as well
just make it yourself! This page has all sorts of stuff to do with wine
brewing, and links to even more. Enjoy...
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Winemaking Chemicals.
Yeast.
Essential to produce the alcohol! The better quality yeast the better
the wine is likely to be. You can buy either general yeasts, or
yeast specific to certain wine types eg. Burgundy.
Yeast Extract.
This generally contains nitrogen producing chemicals to nourish
the yeast and therefore make it ferment to its full potential.
Tannin.
Most fruit wines should not need tannin adding, but many flower
or grain wines will. Insufficient tannin will result in a flat,
dull wine, whereas too much will make it bitter. Tannin also acts
as a preservative.
Citric Acid.
Adds acidity (funnily enough) and also increases the "fruity" taste.
Campden Tablets.
Antimicrobials to prevent oxidation of the wine. Can be used both
before and after fermentation, but if used before ensure at least
24 hours are left before adding the yeast.
Sulphite.
Usually in the form of Sodium or Potassium Metabisulphite, this
is to sterilise all equipment before use.
Finings.
If, after allowing plenty of time after fermentation the wine has
not cleared, finings can do the trick.
Pectolytic Enzyme.
Prevents a pectic haze in fruit wines.
Basic
Winemaking Equipment.
The essential equipment
needed to make reasonable wine is fairly easy to gather, and should
not need a second mortgage to purchase. The list below indicates the
basics, followed by some recommended additions if you can afford them.
They make life easier....
Demijohn (Carboy).
At least one demijohn is needed, although two is better. Demijohns
are usually glass containers of 1 gallon capacity with a narrow neck
into which an airlock and bung is inserted.
Bungs.
Normally made from rubber or cork, they will need to have been bored
to allow an airlock to be inserted if they are used for the fermentation
stage.
Airlock.
Usually a glass "U-tube" placed in the neck of the demijohn to prevent
air entering the demijohn by way of a water barrier. It does, however,
allow gasses produced during fermentation to be released.
Large Container.
This must be of food grade, as it will hold the initial fruit mix
before fermentation and transfer to a demijohn. The larger, the better,
although don't go mad.
Sieve.
Ideal for removing the fruit from the must - the sludge before transfer
of the juice to a demijohn.
Plastic Tubing.
A length of plastic tubing suitable for food use is necessary for
syphoning wine from the sediment into another container (racking off).
It is possible to purchase tubing with a tap at one end but this is
purely a convenience thing and is not essential.
Wine Bottles.
Ideally, wine should be transferred to bottles after fermentation,
although it can be stored in demijohns for a short time.
Measuring Jug and Scales.
At many points during winemaking both liquids and solids will require
accurate measuring, so scales and a jug are essential.
Useful Equipment.
Hydrometer.
This will determine the sugar content of a liquid, and by comparing
measurements before and after fermentation it is possible to determine
alcohol content. It is also a good indicator of when fermentation
has ceased.
Thermometer.
Fermentation will require a correct temperature at all times - guessing
may not always be accurate enough. It is also a good idea to check
the temperature of the liquid before adding yeast, as if it is too
hot it will kill the yeast.
Funnel.
Helps make less mess when transferring liquids.
Larger Containers.
If you intend to make larger quantities of wine, it is less time
consuming to invest in a large boiling container and a larger fermenting
vessel, such as 5.5 gallons. This last point will also reduce the
number of airlocks you need.
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Basic
Techniques.
Each recipie for wine should
come with its own detailed instructions, but as a general rule these steps
are standard.
Firstly, get all the equipment
and ingredients together! Obvious, yes, but you really don't want to be
rushing around after finding you have not got a chemical you assumed you
had.
Ideally, have a large, sterile
container that will hold all your ingredients at once. Once mixed, take
a specific gravity reading and allow to ferment at about 20 degrees celsius.
This is primary fermentation and requires air, although ensure no contamination
occurs. This stage normally takes about one week.
After this time, ie when the
frothing has pretty much stopped, the solids should be removed and the
liquid (or must) transferred to an airtight container such as a demijohn
for secondary fermentation.
Secondary fermentation is anaerobic
- ie without air. A demijohn is ideal for this as it allows a bung and
airlock to be fitted. The time taken for this stage can vary considerably,
but is pretty much finished when the airlock ceases to bubble. This fermentation
stage should be kept at about 15 degrees celsius.
Once secondary fermentation
has completely finished, take another hydrometer reading of your wine.
This will enable you to determine the alcohol content of the wine (see
below.) The wine must then be racked. This is a simple process, and simply
removes the wine from any sediment left in the demijohn. If a wine is
left on the sediment for too long it may spoil due to the decomposing
agents in the sediment. To rack off the wine, simply have a sterilised
container in a position lower than that of the container holding the wine.
Connect the two with a length of tubing - place one end into the wine,
suck some into the tube, and place the other end in the second container.
Gravity will continually pull the liquid through. Allow the liquid to
clear. Some wines may need 3 or 4 rackings, or one could be sufficient.
The wine may now either be
bottled, or sometimes it is more convenient to keep it all in one larger
container. Either way, red wines and many white wines will benefit from
being kept in green or brown glass to prevent light spoiling the wine,
which should also be kept at a relatively cool temperature.
Hydrometer Readings.
Hydrometer readings enable
you to determine the point at which fermentation of your wine has finished,
and also the alcohol content of the wine. Two readings are required; one
immediately after adding the sugar at the beggining of fermentation, and
the second once fermentation has fully finished. The difference between
the readings can be converted into an alcohol volume content by dividing
by 7.36. An example would therefore be:
Original Gravity: 1200
Final Gravity: 1105
Decrease = 95 (ie 1200 - 1105)
95 / 7.36 = 12.9% alcohol
by volume.
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